Benim kız kardeşim geldi! My sister came!

Being an abla (elder sister) comes with its struggles and rewards. Its struggles, like your little sister forgetting to pack her toothbrush not once but twice--even after you buy her another one, are often comical. Its rewards are many and powerful. The rewards: Colette agreeing after only one phone call to come to Turkey a week before the rest of the family to help me pack and to travel  together. Accepting and understanding my superfluous tears as she describes Kathleen's wedding to me (Am I extra emotional this week about leaving Erzurum, my friends, and students? Certainly.). Not caring that our mini bus will not leave for another half hour because there is no where she would rather be than staring at Akdamar Island on the shores of Lake Van--plus, we have some almonds to eat. And finally, telling me that she knows I am busy but she wishes I would blog more because she likes it. And she would be a good guest blogger. So here she is. Ladies and gentlemen, Colette Berg!

It seems that all I have done since I arrived in Turkey on Sunday is eat, drink tea, and meet kind people. I tell you, this is my kind of country. Everywhere we go in Erzurum, people greet us with a cheerful hello, ask my name, and offer us tea. I love getting the chance to see the strong community that my sister has here--from her enthusiastic students to her co-workers at the university to the waiters at the Fulbrighters' favorite restaurant. Yesterday, while drinking tea with HM's boss, (this was our fourth out of seven cups that day), he lamented that HM is going back to the US soon. However, he admitted, "Family comes first." I must agree. While I am so excited to see the sights of Turkey, this is a small joy compared to the joy of being with my Abla again.

My most memorable day so far was going to a mangal--barbecue--with HM and Nermin's English students. They had just completed their final English exam, so no doubt their brains were fried, yet many of them still made conversation with me, with many gestures to facilitate understanding. We ate dozens of chicken wings with lavash bread, then goofed around on the playground. My proudest moment was during a volleyball game. I heard the phrase "salaam aleikoum"--peace be with you--and gave the response "aleikoum salaam"--and also with you. Ironic that my first successful Turkish interaction occurred in Arabic. Everyone clapped, happy to hear teacher's sister say something comprehensible. I had learned it from one of the Orhan Pamuk books HM recommended to me. As HM promised, traditional dance followed the meal. I learned a dance, realized that I have been snapping my fingers wrong all my life, and then did the Cupid Shuffle with HM, Nermin, and a few students. The best part about the afternoon was just getting to hang out with a bunch of people who just finished freshman year of college, just like me.

We decided to go to Van for the weekend, and I got the full eastern Turkey bus experience. An elderly Teyze--aunty--sat down in the aisle at my feet, and later fell asleep with her head almost in my lap. I slept for most of the bus ride, and when HM asked me if i was uncomfortable and wanted to switch places, I replied, "I am asleep right now," and promptly closed my eyes again.

Today we explored a beautiful Armenian church, and tonight we'll visit a castle! Insallah, the next few weeks will be as magical as my first few days in Turkey.